Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Upper Torso Mold Part 4

Here, the arm socket is shown, just poured. The wax torso is still inside the mold. I did not forget to apply the parting agent before pouring the plaster. Remember, plaster sticks to plaster, so a suitable parting agent is needed when pouring plaster into plaster.

This is another view of the mold, showing the spare. Note that all the edges of the mold have been beveled. This looks good, keeps sharp edges from chipping, and is easier on the hands when working with the molds.

It really helps to have a vibrator turned on when pouring such small pieces. Here are the arm socket pieces.

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  1. kw , once again wow !!! i desing a new doll now , my cassandra my past doll is still work in progress , and im wondering if the plaster stick with the air dry clay, i will use vaselin , do you have any tip for that? im going to do plaster molds (i cant afort the silicon for now , and i cast her in cold procelain slip)

  2. hello gerakina. I do not have any experience with air-dry clays for doll-making (DAS, La Doll, etc.). From what I have heard, they can become soggy when exposed to water or dampness, even when sealed with various primers? However, the plaster molds of the air-dry clay original doll parts are good (if you don't mind losing the clay original). My tip for making the original doll sculpt is to use an oil-clay over a wire armature, or modeling wax for the original sculpt. Then make rough shell molds of plaster from the original sculpt. Saturate those molds in water, remove the excess moisture, then cast carving wax into those molds. Finish the doll parts in carving wax. This is the method I am using. It is the Martha Armstrong-Hand method of making a BJD.


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