Friday, December 10, 2010

Moulage Head Mold Nº 3



This morning I de-molded the brown wax head from yesterday. The tin can is open on both ends, so I just pushed the moulage mold through and out of the can. Then I pulled it open in the back. This resulted in a tear. I think that next time I will use a knife and make a clean cut instead of tearing the mold. I was able to remove the head very easily. Then I replaced the moulage mold back into the tin can coddle. The setup moulage has a consistency of cheese, but it is still flexible to a certain degree. It needs a mother mold around it.





I melted the carving wax in my wax pot, and stirred it very well before pouring it. Here you can see the wax thickening around the walls of the mold.





When the wax seemed thick enough, I poured the excess back into the wax pot, then took the casting and ran cold water into the hollow. Next I took it back to the molding table and poured wax in a second time, and let it sit for a bit. After pouring the excess wax from the second pour back into the wax pot, I ran cold water into the hollow of the casting until it was well set. Then I de-molded the carving wax casting. It came out okay, considering that this was the first time I've tried making a one-piece mold with moulage.





After removing the casting from the moulage mold, I chopped up the moulage mold and put it back in the storage jar. Then I put the storage jar in the double boiler to remelt it again in order to make the moulage mold for the skull cap, which is still in its tin can coddle.





Here is the front view of the carving wax casting.





Here is the right side view of the carving wax casting.





Here is the back view of the carving wax casting.






Here is the left side view of the carving wax casting.


Casting wax into a moulage mold is very similar to casting wax into a water saturated plaster mold. For this reason, I think that the moulage mold material can be used in making a ball jointed doll. The advantages of using a moulage mold are that both plaster and wax can be cast into a moulage mold. The moulage does not stick to anything, not even itself. There are techniques that can be used if you need to stick more than one pouring of moulage to a previous pouring. Also the moulage mold material can be reused over and over again. I read that the moulage gets better with use.

Important things to note are that the moulage should not be put in an aluminum container to melt it. Do not let the moulage dry out. I store and melt my moulage in a sealable glass jar.




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2 comments:

  1. Hello, I'm enjoying your blog very much, it is quite wonderful how you are sharing your own knowledge and your findings.
    I have had this page open now for days, slowly going through your posts.

    I had come across moulage before on another blog (have not seen it sold in Europe), but I had assumed that since it is a heat sensitive material, it would not be good for making moulds of wax sculptures, and then pouring hot wax into it as well, for casting.
    You've done both these steps here, and I am confused as to why the moulage did not lose its definition when the molten wax was poured in, or why the wax original did not start to melt when the hot moulage was poured onto it....

    Is the carving wax cast not noticeably smaller and with less surface definition than the original brown sculpture?

    Many thanks,
    Joseph
    http://feltibusproductions.blogspot.it

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for your kind words about my blog. The Hot-Pour Moulage is a mold material from the Alginate family of mold making materials, and is made from seaweed and water. Water and wax do not mix. After I melt the hot-pour moulage I let it cool down before I pour it. The microcrystalline wax and the carving wax have higher melting temperatures than the hot-pour moulage, so they do not melt when the hot-pour moulage is poured over them. A solidified hot-pour moulage mold is cool when the molten carving wax is poured into it, so the carving wax solidifies next to the wall of the mold almost immediately, before the mold wall can be affected by the heat of the molten carving wax. The carving wax will thicken along the walls of the mold, and when it gets thick enough, the excess may be poured back into the wax pot, for reuse. My Carving Wax shrinks about 3%. It picks up all the details of the original, down to fingerprints. The hot-pour moulage mold is only good for a limited number of castings. I use it as a waste-mold material. After use, it is chopped-up and stored in air-tight containers until the next time I use it. Hopefully helpful.

      Delete

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