Saturday, February 19, 2011

Drafting The Back Bodice Nº 4

Drafting a Back Bodice Sloper

Using the measurements taken from the dress form, the back bodice sloper is drawn according to the following diagram. The drawing to fit the BJD will be made, step-by-step. There are about 31 steps to drafting the back bodice sloper, in Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin (1942).

From: Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin, 1942. http://vintagesewing.info/1940s.html

17. B-G -- B-G is equal in length to E-F less one-half inch and is squared from line B-A at point B. Label point G. (This determines angle of back waistline dart. When an individual is being measured, this should be determined with the tapeline. The one-half inch is satisfactory for standard sizes.) Aalish is a 1/3 scale BJD, so 1/3 of 1/2 inch is about 4mm.

18. G-9 -- From point G, draw a line to connect points G and 9. (Line B-G-9 represents the unfitted waistline. Some of this excess will be used in the dart, the remainder will be taken off at the side seam.)

19. Measure line B-G-9. Jot that amount down. Subtract one-half the Back Waist Measurement from this amount. The difference represents the amount which must be thrown into a dart and taken off the side seam.

Divide this difference in half. (Should minute fractions be involved, you can take a strip of paper equal to the difference and fold it in half as a measuring agent.)

20. 9-H -- From point 9, measure off a distance on the line B-G-9 equal to one-half the strip of paper. Label that point H.

21. H-10 -- Draw a connecting line between points H and 10.

22. G-I -- From point G, measure to the right a distance equal to the remaining unused portion of the difference. Label point I.

1 comment:

1. Today I purchased some 1/4 inch red and white checked gingham at the fabric shop. This is what I will be using to make the muslin, or toile from the drafts of the sloper set. A sloper set consists of:

1. front bodice

2. back bodice

3. front skirt

4. back skirt

5. sleeve

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