Saturday, October 6, 2012
06 Waste Molds Nº 26
I always check to see if there is water in the double boiler. I usually add a plastic cup full of water to the bottom pot. The water should not cover the steamer gadget. Click on any image to enlarge it.
The stainless steel stock pot that I melt the moulage in needs to be cleaned. That is easy because moulage doesn't stick to anything.
The steamer gadget inside the bottom pot.
The clean stainless steel pot with about four pounds of cut up moulage in it. Note that I have plugged in the hot plate, and turned it on. Sometimes I forget. Then I feel like I've wasted so much time, and it wasn't melting at all.
Once the steam starts coming up around the stainless steel pot, I turn the heat down to a simmer. After that, I check the moulage every 15 or 20 minutes. After a while I can see it starting to melt, so I start stirring it every time I check it. In this photo there are still a lot of cubes of unmelted moulage.
After awhile I notice that it is getting much smoother, so I take it off the hot plate and set it on the floor for awhile, letting it start to cool. I keep stirring it. Here it looks very creamy.
When the moulage has cooled down, but is still pourable, I turn on the mold vibrator that is attached to the side of the mold table, and I pour the mold full of moulage. Then I turn the vibrator off.
It takes awhile for the moulage to cool completely, so I cover it with a piece of plastic and go eat some lunch.
After the moulage has completely cooled, and set up, I take the coddles off, and put the custom coddle on, over the newly cast moulage. Then I can flip it over and remove the plywood riser support, and the clay build-up.
The oil-clay feet are revealed, embedded halfway in moulage. I need to add some more clay to the spare.
Here, I have added some more clay to the spare, for the second side of the mold. The registration key looks good.
While I am waiting for the second batch of moulage to melt, I cover the first half of the mold with a plastic bag. I also put the left over moulage in some plastic bags, so it can be cut up later.
The second half of the mold was poured, allowed to set up, then removed from the coddle and opened. I removed the oil-clay feet. They survived the mold making more or less intact, without too much damage.
I cleaned up the mold while it was open and dabbed out the excess water with some bathroom tissue paper. Then I closed the mold and replaced it in the coddle to pour it. Because the pouring holes are in the side of the mold, I had to come up with a solution to support the mold while I melted carving wax and poured it. My solution in this case was to put the mold pieces together, on their side, and to wedge some coddle boards in the empty space on one side. It worked out well.
This is a top view of the mold in the custom coddle, with the other coddle boards wedged in on one side to hold the mold closed while pouring the carving wax.
The feet aren't very big, so it did not take too much time to melt the carving wax. Here, I have poured the carving wax, and it is cooling and shrinking a little bit.
After waiting for awhile to let the carving wax cool, I then opened the mold and put the carving wax feet in some cold water in the studio sink. I cast these feet solid because they do not need to be hollow. I think they look more like a pair of shoes than feet. I will have to work on them.
Finally, I make sure that all the appliances are shut off and unplugged, and that the moulage mold is wrapped up in plastic bags, so it won't dry out. Hot-melt moulage is reusable if it is not allowed to dry out. This is the main reason I am using it is because it is reusable.
Now I can add a pair of carving wax feet to my carving wax doll collection.
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