Wednesday, October 17, 2012

06 Waste Molds Nº 37




In this photo I have just finished pushing unmelted chunks of moulage into the melted moulage and stirring it with the spatula. It will take about another half an hour to melt enough so I can take the pot out of the double boiler and start letting it cool down to a pourable temperature. . Click on any image to enlarge it.






While I wait for the hot-melt moulage to melt, I cut up moulage and store it in Atlas Mason jars with tight fitting lids.






The moulage melted, so now I have taken it off the double boiler and am cooling it down to a pourable temperature. The leg I am going to mold is in the background, on the build-up, with a clay spare and registrations keys.






After pouring the mold, there was only this much moulage left in the bottom of the stainless steel melting pot. Do not melt hot-pour moulage in an aluminum container.






I turned on the mold vibrator, which is attached to the back of the molding table, while I was pouring this half of the mold. Before I pour the mold, I must make sure that all loose objects are picked up and placed on another table because the vibrator will cause them to fall off the mold table, onto the floor.






After I turn off the mold table vibrator, and scrape the moulage that is on the side of the pot, from the pour, to the bottom of the pot, I cover the mold with plastic and wait for it to cool down and set up .






Once the mold is completely cool to the touch, and is firm when I press on it, it is ready to be demolded. I unclamp and remove the coddles. Then I turn the mold upside down, so the build-up is on top, and I carefully remove the build-up. I leave the spare for the first half of the mold in place. I will build-up more on that spare for the second half of the mold. It looks like the registration keys all formed nicely. I clean up any little flaps of moulage that may have seeped into any cracks.






I build-up the spare for the second half of the mold.






I place the coddles around the first half of the mold. Then I wash out the stainless steel moulage melting pot, add water to the bottom of the double boiler, put the pot in the double boiler, add six jars of moulage chunks to the melting pot, and turn on the hot plate.






After the moulage has melted, I remove it from the double boiler and stir it every once in awhile while it is cooling down to a pourable temperature. The more I work with the moulage, the better I am able to judge when to do what with it. Like any other molding material, it requires practice to get good at it. I also turned on the mold table vibrator when I was pouring this half of the mold. This photo shows the second half of the mold poured in the coddles. I made a mark on the inside of the coddles for this half of the mold, so I would not overfill it. The moulage comes up to a half inch above the highest part of the oil-clay leg.






I cover this half of the mold with plasctic and wait for it to completely cool and set up. When this mold half completely cooled and set up, I unclamped and removed the coddles.






I did not have time to pour carving wax into the mold right away, so I wrapped the mold, with the oil-clay still inside of it, in a plastic bag, so it would not dry out. The left over moulage was also wrapped in plastic bags until I can chop it up for reuse, and store it in Atlas Mason jars with tight fitting lids. One of the best things about hot-melt moulage is that it is reusable.






Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

No comments:

Post a Comment

This is my personal BJD making journal. All comments are moderated. If you make a new comment under an old post, your comment will be published under the old post. I reserve the right to publish or delete any comments made, at my own discretion. Thank you for looking.