Thursday, November 1, 2012

07 Carving Wax Nº 2

Casting carving wax is fairly straightforward. Once the wax has melted, it is poured quickly in a steady, even stream into the mold, up to the top rim of the spare.

Carving wax may be cast into water saturated plaster molds, hot-melt moulage molds, and silicone rubber molds. In all of these molds, the carving wax will thicken around the walls of the mold first, leaving a molten interior which may be poured back into the wax pot when the walls of the casting are thick enough. The photo below is a recent carving wax casting made in a moulage mold. Click on any image to enlarge it.

This photo shows the casting after the excess molten carving wax has been poured back into the wax pot. It will take some experience to learn how hot the wax should be to pour it, and how long to wait to get the thickness you want. You want the walls to be thick enough so that the casting is strong enough to test string later on. For my own purposes, I like to have the walls be at least 1/4 inch (6mm) thick.

The hollow carving wax casting may be filled with cold water to help it cool down.

This is an old photo showing what can happen when the spare is too small to pour the excess wax out. In this case, a vacuum was created which collapsed the soft casting.

Cut in half, it is easy to see that the spare was much too small.

When making the spare for casting carving wax, make sure that it is large enough to have the thickness you want, plus some extra room for pouring the excess molten wax back into the wax pot.

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