Friday, July 12, 2013
08 Joint Design Nº 244
It is always important to allow enough time to do something. I did not feel like I had enough time yesterday, which is why I turned everything off, and waited until today. First, I put a black masonry tub in the shower stall and filled it with enough water to cover the plaster bat that I am going to use to pour molten carving wax into. The basic principle here is that water and wax do not mix. The plaster bat must be completely saturated with water before I pour molten wax into it. How do I know when it is completely saturated? Air bubbles stop forming on the surface of the plaster. I check it by brushing it with a paint brush. Click on any image to enlarge it.
While the plaster bat is soaking in water, I start to melt the carving wax. I have a mark on the electric hot plate that lets me know where to turn the dial so that the carving wax melts, but does not get too hot.
I always stir the carving wax before I pour it because the talc has a tendency to settle somewhat to the bottom of the wax pot. By stirring it, I get a more homogeneous casting, with the talc and wax evenly mixed.
I took the plaster bat out of the water when it was competely saturated with water, and I dabbed the excess water out of it with a soft cloth, then set it on the floor for the pour. Because I am going to be using this casting while it is warm, I must watch it constantly after I pour it. This is what it looks like right after being poured. The surface is shiny.
When the surface gets solid, I use a tool to make some scores in the wax. These scores will help me to tear the wax into pieces I can use.
I tore the excess wax off the casting, leaving the two squares of wax. Then I pressed each square into a hip socket, using the plastic covered hip balls. Once I pushed the warm wax into the holes as far as I could, I tore off the excess wax around the ball, leaving the wax in the sockets. They will require some more work, but this is a good start for these sockets.
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