Monday, September 30, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 324




Today I made the holes in the knee sockets larger. Click on any image to enlarge it.






Then I strung the head, torso, legs, and feet up to test the range of motion.






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Sunday, September 29, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 323




Today I enlarged the holes in the neck ball joint and the neck socket. It was a small increase in size, but I'm not really sure how much larger to make it at this time. I do know that I want it to be larger than it was. Click on the image to enlarge it.






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Saturday, September 28, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 322




Today I enlarged the hole in the large socket of the upper carving wax torso. Click on the image to enlarge it.






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Friday, September 27, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 321




Today I cut out the holes in the hips sockets. I double-checked the layout I did yesterday, made some adjustments, then cut. Click on any image to enlarge it.






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Thursday, September 26, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 320




I worked some more on the hole in the top of the lower carving wax torso. Click on any image to enlarge it.






I also laid out the holes for the hip sockets. I will check then again before I cut the holes. They do not look right in this photo.






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Wednesday, September 25, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 319




Today I enlarged the hole in the top of the lower carving wax torso. I used a hole-saw and a power drill to enlarge the hole. Click on the image to enlarge it.






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Tuesday, September 24, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 318




I am finished with the first test-stringing, and I am going over each set of doll parts and making notes of what I need to do. This is the right arm and hand.






Pretty much, exactly everything I noted for the left arm and hand, need to be done here. I guess I have kept up with the symmetry of the arms and hands, even though my work habits have been scattered, to say the least.



Even grouping the doll parts into sets, like I have done here in the last few days, shows how complex a simple ball-jointed doll project can be. I really needed to get a sense of organization for this project.

I try to do a little bit of work on my doll every day. The only thing I can say is that each little bit adds up, over time. The key to success is hard work, perseverance, and a little bit of luck.

I cannot say that talent has anything to do with making a ball-jointed doll. There are certainly talented doll makers in this world, but I sincerely believe that anyone who has a genuine desire to make their own BJD, can do it, if they really want to, whether they have any previous art experience, or not. The whole project has many steps. Just break each step down into its parts, and work on one part at a time. As each of the parts is completed, then a step is closer to being completed. Each step brings you closer to a finished doll. Enjoy the doll making journey. Be happy. Remember to Have Fun !!!




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Monday, September 23, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 317




I am finished with the first test-stringing and I am working through each set of doll parts and making notes of things that I need to do. This is the left arm and hand. The shoulder ball joint needs to have some carving poured in it. It is only 1/8th inch thick. The elbow socket needs a matte board ring. The elbow transition between the upper and lower arm needs work. The elbow ball joint is thick enough. The wrist socket has a matte board ring. The wrist ball joint is solid. The hand needs to be sculpted.






This is the bottom view, showing the elbow socket and wrist socket of the left arm, as well as the top of the left hand. Much works needs to be done on this arm.






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Sunday, September 22, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 316




The first test-stringing is finished and I am working through each set of doll parts and making notes of what I need to do. This is the bottom of the upper torso. The socket has been filled. The hole needs to be enlarged. The edges around the socket need to be worked, for symmetry, and to better fit the lower torso. The transition between the upper torso and lower torso needs work.






The collar bone area needs some work on symmetry, but otherwise is pretty close to being where I want it to be.






The shoulder socket needs to be filled. A matte board ring is needed. The transition between the neck and the ball joint needs work. Check for undercuts around the breasts, especially on the sides.






Same notes for this side as for the above side.






The neck to ball joint has already been mentioned. Check symmetry. Check for undercuts.






The back is almost where I want it to be. I may make some small detail changes, but they won't be much.






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Saturday, September 21, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 315




I have finished the first test-stringing and I am going over each set of doll parts and making notes of what I need to do. This is the head. It is the top of the head with the skull cap removed. It is very thick. I have already removed much thickness from the skull cap, and I need to do the same with the matching plane of the head where the top of the head and the skull cap meet.






This is the bottom of the head, showing the neck joint socket. This socket has been filled. The hole needs to be enlarged.






The face is still in much the same stage it was when I pulled the head from the mold. I should probably start cleaning it up, in preparation for the final work on it. However, the final work on the face will be one of the last things I do.






The join between the skull cap and the head needs to be worked on. The ear is still in a very rough state, and needs to start being detailed.






Same for the other side. The ear needs to start being detailed.






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Friday, September 20, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 314




The first test-stringing is finished. I am going over each set of doll parts and making notes of what I need to do. This is the lower torso. The ball of the lower torso needs to be made more symmetrical. The hole in the ball needs to be enlarged.






The hip sockets have been filled. The holes in the hip sockets need to be enlarged. The edges of the hip sockets need to be made more uniform. The hip sockets need matte board rings. I need to work on the transition between the hip balls and the lower torso.






In the front, material needs to be removed from around the edge of the socket on both joints.






The back needs some work in softening some of the forms. I also need to work on symmetry.






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Thursday, September 19, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 313




The first test-stringing has finished. I am going over each set of doll parts and making notes of things I need to do. This is the right leg and foot.






As with the left foot, the right foot needs to be sculpted in more detail. It is currently in a rough state. The ankle ball is solid, and does not need any reinforcement. The lower leg ankle socket has a matte board ring. The transition between the ring and the leg needs more work. The knee ball is thick enough. The knee socket on the upper leg has been filled. The hole in the knee socket needs to be enlarged. The knee socket on the upper leg needs a matte board ring. The hip ball is only 3/16ths inch thick, but due to the surface area of the ball, I think it will strong enough. I am not planning on making it thicker at this time. The transition between the leg and the ball needs work.






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Wednesday, September 18, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 312




The first test-stringing is about finished. I have unstrung the carving wax doll. I am going to work through each set of parts and make notes of what I need to do, for now. This is the left leg and foot.






The foot needs to be sculpted. Right now, it is only roughed-out. The ankle ball joint is solid, so it does not need any reinforcement. The ankle socket has a matte board ring. The knee joint is thick enough. A bevel has been carved behind the knee joint. The knee socket in the upper leg needs a matte board ring. The knee socket has been filled. The hole in the knee socket may need enlarging. The transition between the leg and the hip ball needs work.






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Tuesday, September 17, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 311




Overall, the repair job was a success. The knee joint is actually better now than it was before the accident. I used drill bits to make holes in the ball, and the X-Acto knife to carve the slot. The ball joint is now about 3/8ths of an inch thick, which is much sturdier than before, when it was only about 1/8th of an inch thick. I recommend at least 1/4th of an inch thickness for the parts of a carving wax doll this size.






Once the holes and slots were drilled and carved, I restrung her. This time, I made double sure that the S-hook was attached to the ankle pin before letting go of it.






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Monday, September 16, 2013

08 Joint Design Nº 310




I examined the repair job I did yesterday a little more closely, and decided that the ball itself, which is only about 1/8th of an inch thick, should be thicker. I put some masking tape over the hole and slot in the ball joint to prepare it for pouring some molten carving wax into the ball from the bottom of the lower leg (at the ankle). Click on any image to enlarge it.






I melted a small amount of carving wax in my wax pot, and after stirring it thoroughly, to mix the wax and talc, I poured it into the ball, through the opening at the ankle. Once the wax was poured, I rotated the leg so that the molten wax would cover the inside of the ball joint completely. I just guessed at the amount of carving wax I poured into the leg. After rotating the leg for several minutes, I poured out the excess molten carving wax back into the wax pot. The ball was quite hot, so I set it aside to cool. Later, I removed the masking tape.






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