Making a Plaster Build-up [part 3]
I always let the plaster set up for at least one hour. That means I walk away from the mold for at least an hour, sometimes longer; like even until the next day. Plaster sets up with an exothermic reaction. That means that it will change from a pourable liquid to a solid, and it will get hot during that change. In the snapshot below, the coddles have been removed, and the oil-clay coils along the bottom have been scraped up and the plaster cleaned off. I have also scraped all the sharp edges off with the spackle tool. I also scraped off the table top. The scraps will go in the trash container. Never put plaster (dry, set, or wet) down the drain pipes. Click on any image to enlarge it.
This snapshot shows the plaster build-up with the oil-clay ribbon removed.
I nailed a couple of small wooden blocks to the corner of the plaster mold table to act as stops for scraping the surfaces of the plaster build-up. Any piece of straight steel that is long enough will work for scraping. Here, I used the back of an old saw blade.
This is the plaster build-up, viewed from the bottom, with the carving wax foot inserted in the open foot shape that was made with the oil-clay ribbon. The carving wax foot will stick out the other side, up to the parting line, and oil-clay will be pressed in the small gap around the sole of the foot. Once that is done, the carving wax foot will be ready to have the first plaster mold piece made over the sole of the foot.
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