Monday, May 5, 2014
09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 35
I think it really is best to wait for an uninterrupted block of time to work on the plaster mold. If I don't think I have enough time, I do something else. Today I started out by trying to square-up the sides of the plaster mold with the Surform tool. It did not take too long. That tool can remove plaster quickly. Click on any image to enlarge it.
I soaped the mold where I planned to pour the new plaster piece. Yeah, I am redoing the toe piece.
I fit the coddles around the mold and clamp them securely. I also put a 6 inch clamp across the two side pieces to make sure they stayed tightly together. Finally, I rolled out some oil-clay coils and placed them around the bottom of the coddles to keep the mold in place while pouring. The mold table vibrator can cause the mold to move across the table if it isn't secured.
I tared the mixing bowl to zero, then measured out 2 parts of water and three parts of plaster.
Always add plaster to water. I rapidly sift the plaster into the water as evenly as I can. I let the plaster slack until the plaster has absorbed the water. I push the island of plaster down with my fingers, and mix the plaster until there are no more lumps, and it is creamy smooth. When I can draw an S in the surface of the plaster mix, and see it afterwards, the plaster is ready to pour. I turn ON the vibrator. I pour the plaster evenly into the coddles until the area is filled. I turn OFF the vibrator. I pour the excess plaster into the lined trash can, and rinse my hands and mixing bowls in the bucket of water. Never put plaster (dry, set, or wet) into the drain pipes.
Let the fresh plaster setup for at least an hour. I usually leave it alone for several hours, or even until the next day.
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