Tuesday, June 30, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 225




I use my paring knife to scrape the plaster mold, leveling high places.






I use the key tool to carve registration keys.






Now I am ready to start on the second clay build-up.






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Monday, June 29, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 224




As I remove the coddles, I clean the oil clay. In this snapshot, I can see there was a small amount of leakage. It was not as much as I thought there would be. Click on any image to enlarge it.






There was no leakage behind the second coddle, but behind the third coddle it leaked a little bit more than before. Still, not too bad. It could have been much worse. There were no leaks behind the fourth coddle.






There is the oil clay build-up.






These are some snapshots of the lower torso in the first mold piece.






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Sunday, June 28, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 223




I weighed 5 pounds of water and 7.5 pounds of plaster, then added the plaster to the water and let it slack. I pushed the island of plaster under the water and squeezed out the lumps with my fingers. I mixed the plaster until it was smooth. When I could trace an S in the surface and it left a mark, the plaster mix was ready to pour. I turned on the mold table vibrator. I poured the plaster evenly into the coddles. I turned off the vibrator. Excess plaster was dumped in the trash bin. I cleaned my hands, tools, and mixing container in the bucket of water. Never put plaster (dry, wet, or set) down the drain pipes !!! I leave the mold completely alone for at least an hour for it to set up. This is just the first piece of this mold. Click on the image to enlarge it.






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Saturday, June 27, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 222




Because of the supports, I am leaving this build-up on the modeling board. I fastened the modeling board to the mold table with some balls of oil clay. Click on any image to enlarge it.






This snapshot shows the coddles fastened to the modeling board with coils of oil clay all around the bottom edges. The coddles are secured at the top with C or G clamps. Because of the large open space below the build-up, I took extra pains to seal all the way around the inside of the coddles for this mold piece, including the vertical inside corners.



The arithmetic for this mold volume indicates that I will need 5 pounds of water to 7.5 pounds of plaster. That should yield a consistency of 67.




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Friday, June 26, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 221




I worked all the way around the lower torso where the oil clay build-up meets the carving wax and filled and smoothed the oil clay as best as I could. This is a before snapshot. Click on the image to enlarge it.






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Thursday, June 25, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 220




I rolled out a slab of oil clay to use as a build-up. I cut out a piece of cardboard in the shape of the torso. I used this as a template to cut the shape out of the oil clay slab.






It fit pretty good. I fastened it to the torso under the slab of oil clay. Then I filled the gaps between the oil clay slab and the torso.






I used various items to prop up the oil clay build-up, including pill bottles, vitamin bottles, and a piece of scrap wood. These are work-in-progress snapshots of the oil clay build-up.






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Wednesday, June 24, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 219




I am beginning to work on the parting line for the oil clay build-up for the lower torso. I am using a plastic card wrapped in carbon paper to make the mark. The plastic card has sides that are square to each other. The carbon paper leaves a mark on the highest surface. The lower torso is propped-up with some oil clay on a flat surface that allows me to move the plastic card around the lower torso easily.






This is a snapshot of another parting line angle I am trying. I may try several before deciding which ones I want to use. Due to the sockets, this lower torso requires a wee bit more thought.






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Tuesday, June 23, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 218




After removing the coddles, I used the SurForm tool to bevel all the edges.






Next, I used a knife and a small hammer to open the third mold piece along the mold seam.






It came off easily. I beveled all the edges.






Next, I opened the first two mold pieces.






They opened easily.






I removed the carving wax pattern. It came out easily.






I finished beveling all the edges that needed to be beveled.






I used a pencil to mark the placement of the spare.






I used my paring knife to start cutting the spare at each end.






Then I cut the middle of the spare.






I repeated the same operation to carve the other half of the spare.






This is what the inside of the mold looks like.






I banded the mold and set it next to the furnace to dry. All the other molds are already dry.






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Monday, June 22, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 217




I carved three registration keys into each of the two mold halves with my key tool.






I clamped the coddles in place. This snapshot shows the mold completely soaped, ready for the pour.






I weighed and mixed the plaster as before, using 2 pounds of water to 3 pounds of plaster. I used the mold table vibrator when I poured the plaster. This is the last mold piece to pour for this mold. I still need to carve a spare, and bevel the edges of the mold.






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Sunday, June 21, 2015

09 Plaster Production Molds Nº 216




Happy Summer Solstice !!!



I removed the coddles and cleaned the oil clay. The leakage was minimal, and all of it was contained.






Another shot of plaster leakage. The coddles caught all of it.






Using a round-tip knife to carve the plaster to get rid of undercuts. I used the SurForm tool to trim the edges of the mold.






This mold is ready for the third mold piece to be cast. I must remember to carve registration keys and apply parting agent.






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